I am not fond, for everyday at least, of racy, heady wines that diffuse a potent charm and have their own particular flavor. What I like the best is a clean, light, modest country vintage of no special name. One can carry plenty of it and it has the good and homely flavor of the land, and of the earth and sky and woods.
A pint of Elsasser and a piece of good bread is the best of all meals.
H. H.